Portland, OR, Washougal WA and the Columbia River Gorge

So it's been well over a year since I posted anything including never having finished posting about the exciting conclusion of our big trip.

Maybe someday I will actually finish that if anyone is interested.

I haven't been roaming much since then, although there was a great trip back to NB for Easter at Sue B's, a few fantastic weekends in Truckee, and some relaxing trips to Woodland, a trip to Anza Borrego State Park, a cross-country road-trip to Wisconsin, which really deserved a post and shame on me for having not done so.

Here are a smattering from the cross-country trip last year and a fantastic one from Eater:

From Middle America

From Middle America

From Middle America

From Middle America

From Easter 2010

Then July 31, 2010 happened. And what happened exactly? Well I had my first real vacation. What does that mean? It means that I now have a job where I work like a maniac, and then I got to stop for a whole week and isolate myself from all those responsibilities and explore somewhere new.

True to form for Dave and I's trips, it was a road trip north and I didn't drive a mile. No seriously. I don't know why, but I know that I liked it.

On Saturday July 31 we loaded up the Jetta (Happy 9 year anniversary Jetta!) and made the 11 hour drive to Portland. We stopped in Williams at Granzella's for lunch (amazing meatball sandwich and delicious Sicilian style olives that I feasted on during the week). We spent Saturday night with the gracious hosts of Shelly and Brendan. And their poor cat Kona who was terrified of all of us, especially Louie.

Our hostess Shelly (an old picture, but a good one)

From Shelly's Weekend

Sadly Brendan had to work on Sunday, but we got to explore Portland with Shelly as our guide. We went to Simpatica Dining Hall and it was delicious.

Bloody Marys Loaded with Pickled Asparagus, Carrot, Celery and and Olive

Delicious Waffles with Fried Chicken and Huckleberry Syrup

Decadent Chicken-Fried Bison with Sausage Gravy and Home Fries



and

Hawaiian-style Pork Plate

Did I mention that's what Dave and I ordered for Brunch? Shelly had something dainty like crepes, but we went for the GLUTTONY.

After checking out Portland we drove the half hour or so across the Columbia river into Washington and east up the river. This took us to the town of Washougal and "The Cabin"

The Cabin was awesome, just a spacious one-room place tucked into the trees. We spent Sunday evening and all day Monday reading, enjoying the sound of the river and relaxing. It was a great birthday.

Then Tuesday we drove to the Portland airport to pick up Mallory, one of my nearest-and-dearest from Aggieland. We had lunch at Tin Shed, a dog friendly restaurant that even has doggie meals (Louie did not get one).

Then we went to Powell's. It was everything I had hoped it would be and more. Mallory had self-restraint, but Dave and I went all out and bought a whole bag full of books.

After Powell's we went up to Washington Park and the Rose Garden.

Dave and Louie pondered the meaning of life. And they decided that it's all about fun...

After the Rose Garden we found a nice grassy spot for some reading and napping.

Then we headed to Voodoo Donuts.

A tiny little donut shop on a dingy block with a long time. Was it worth the wait? Probably, as I had never had a donut with oreo cookie crumbled into the vanilla icing.

We (Dave, Mallory, Louie and I) eventually ended up at Hoyt 23 and had a lovely dinner with Shelly and Brendan to celebrate my birthday (and not a single picture was taken).

Wednesday Mallory, Dave, Louie and I loaded up and checked out "The Gorge." It is beautiful.

We walked to the top of Beacon Rock for the view.

Then we went to the Bonneville Dam. I especially liked getting to watch the Salmon and Lampreys make their way through the fish ladder.

Driving over the Bridge of the Gods was neat, but looking down was a little disconcerting.

We drove up to Hood River, had lunch, and watched the windsurfers and kiteboarders on the river. Then we headed back west stopping for icecream.

We finally ended up in Troutdale at Tad's Chicken and Dumplin's.

We weren't even hungry, but we had to get some to-go for later, how could we not with a name like that?

Eventually, we made it back to the Cabin for a mellow evening.

Thursday we went into Portland and after some navigational difficulties found a row of food carts for lunch. I wish Oakland had these. A whole little block of carts with everything from Creole Gumbo to Pastrami on Rye with Thai, Indian, Mexican, and a little of everything else in between.

We then checked out the Hawthorne neighborhood of East Portland (including a stop to the Powell's branch there) and all too soon it was time to return Mallory to the airport.

Thursday night Shelly came out to the cabin to fish with Dave and I enjoyed my book then grilled burgers and corn for our dinner.

Friday was more peace and quiet on the banks of the Washougal. We ended the day with a soak and wrap at the Bonneville Hot Springs.

Saturday we headed home, with a brief stop to check out Ashland. Next time I'd like to plan the trip to stop in Ashland and see a play.

The vacation was capped off by returning to the apartment where Brian and Camille were enjoying a weekend down from Truckee.

For my first ever real vacation it was a winner. Now I'm looking forward to the next one!

I'm a Bad Kid for not posting, but I am safe in Berkeley

Time really flies when you're having fun, getting sick, having the car broken into, visiting family, and driving home.

Sorry for the lack of posts. We really enjoyed Chiapas and the Mayan ruins of Palenque, but didn't have internet to post. Then it was down hill with an eye infection for me, and someone breaking into the van in Puebla. Whoever did it, knew what they were doing, and did a job on par with the sophisticated car-break-inners of the Bay Area: jammed the lock, grabbed the stereo and any bags and were out of there, in broad day light.

It was a big bummer, and after that we just wanted to head home. So we hauled it back to Texas. Once there time was spent resting and with the family, and the blog got pushed back because I spent all my time playing with Mom's new kittens and being reunited with Louie. Then after visiting my family in Oklahoma, Louie and I made the trip back to Berkeley.

Dave spent about a week in Texas, then went to Joshua Tree and is now in Tahoe.

Louie and I arrived here Thursday night and are currently enjoying Liza's hospitality. Now I'm going to start in on rejoining society by finding a place to live and a job, and keeping my car clean...

I'm also going to update the blog with a post about Palenque (it was awesome), some pictures from Texas, and a photo slideshow of highlights from the trip.

Thanks for reading, and more importantly, thank you to everyone who emailed or posted comments of support and concern. I can never doubt that I am blessed to be surrounded by wonderful people.

Revolutionaries and Swine Flu, Oh My!

We are in San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico.

As for the Zapatistas we have seen lots of dolls, postcards, posters etc. But the checkpoints we passed through are easy because of the California plates and our light skin. The first they looked in, asked our nationality, and waved us on; the second they just waved us through.

As for Swine Flu there are a few people wearing masks, maybe one out of every 10. It seems people are excited the shutdown is over. We got into San Cristobal yesterday after an 8 hour drive from Xela. Thanks to the change to daylight savings and our having left early since everyone in the hostel in Xela was up at the crack of dawn, we were here with daylight to spare and enjoyed strolling the picturesque streets.

We left Suchitoto the morning of May 4 and after driving 9 and a half hours got to Xela just before dark. What a luxury to pull into a town where you don't have to look at the map! While we were familiar with Suchitoto, Xela was a good old friend that took very little brain power.
I was extremely excited when I realized that we could go to La Bakeshop for more awesome Mennonite baked goods in the morning before we left.

The only problem was we didn't leave the next morning... When Dave went to get the van, it started spewing oil! Thankfully the man who ran the parking lot had a nephew who was a mechanic. While we were for the nephew, there was time for La Bakeshop and the glorious cinnamon donut. The nephew came and the problem was a faulty oil filter we got when our oil was changed in Nicaragua. After a trip to two autoparts stores and about 30 minutes of fiddling by the nephew we had a new oil filter and no more spewing oil. The downside was it was already 2pm.

We had debated contacting Elsa, Marco, Maria (our host family from before) but decided not to because we didn't want to bother them, and we just wanted to sleep. But while waiting in line for the ATM, we ran into Marco who insisted we come to the house that evening to say hello. I am so glad we did. It was great to see them and talk about our travels.

Yesterday morning we had take 2 of driving to Mexico and it went off without a hitch. We also had our fastest border crossing of 25 minutes for both sides, including driving 4km between offices and me insisting we go in and make sure the car permit was in order, which it was.

Pictures soon. The wifi at our hostel isn't working and there isn't a card reader on the free computer...

Change of Plans!

Yes, that quickly.

Sitting around the square yesterday evening, Dave and I decided that we really don't want to wait to start heading home. Suchitoto is nice, and more Spanish classes would only help me, but the bottom line is, I am tired of traveling!

There, I said it. I am tired of hostels and cheap hotels and no screens on the windows and sleeping in the poison of mosquito coils or repellent so I'm not eaten to pieces during my fitful sleep. I am tired of roosters at 4am. I miss cooking for myself. I miss an abundant selection of veggies. I miss picking up the phone and calling my friends. I miss drinking water out of the tap. I miss wearing something other than my one pair of pants, my one skirt, or my one dress.

I won't speak for Dave and why he wants to go home, but I think it has something to do with climbing and being tired of the rules of the road down here. Just a guess.

Anyway, the new plan is leaving here tomorrow morning and driving into Guatemala. Spending the night in Guatemala. We aren't sure where, still trying to get info on the best route from Guatemala to San Cristobal.

May 5 crossing into Mexico and driving to San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas. A couple days there, then if Palenque is open going to Palenque for some more Mayan ruins, if not continuing towards Oaxaca City, probably a two day drive. From Oaxaca City to Morelia, again probably a two day drive. Morelia to Leon or Guanajuato. Then to Saltillo. Then to Texas.

Who knows how long it will take us, it depends on road conditions, what all is open, and how we feel.

But I leave you with these pictures snapped the past couple of days around Suchitoto. Which really is a great little town, and if it wasn't so hot and we weren't so weary, we would stay in longer.


The two little dogs that live at the tienda on the square. They are smaller than Louie, but act like they own one entire side of the square.

Scultpure at the Center for Art and Peace

Grass and cobblestones lead to the Square

Thunderhead. Dusk. May 2

Just down from the tienda and the dogs is a souvenier shop that transforms to a comedor around 5.

The Plan, or Pig Flu--- We Ain't Scared

We are itchin' to get home, but unfortunately there's the little H1N1 thing going on, and Mexico has closed down just about everything until May 5.

While we plan on being cautious and using good hygiene and common sense when we drive through Mexico, we are still going to drive home, and obviously that means going through Mexico.

Of course, what things will be like when we get home is another question, seeing as how Comal County (New Braunfels, where we're headed to see my family once we get into the USA) is closing parks and what not, I'm not sure how much there is to look forward to. But I do know that at least I'll have a kitchen and a comfy bed.

So here is the plan, subject to change, of course...

We are in Suchitoto, El Salvador, and happy to be here. We are staying in a nice little room with a strong fan and a gracious host, Robert El Gringo. Starting Monday I am doing 5 days of Spanish class, and Dave will probably head to the coast to surf. Friday or Saturday of next week we'll go back to the Ruta de Flores to see what's like on the weekend, then head into Guatemala. Probably spending the night somewhere along CA2, then into Mexico around May 11. Then we'll drive through Mexico at a reasonable pace given road conditions and how we feel. We promise to wash our hands regularly and thoroughly, and try our hardest to follow the other recommendations made by our beloved friend Dr. Krebs.

4 Borders in 4 Days

That's right, we went crazy.

After Panama City, we went to Santa Catalina Panama, and I had one of the best dives of my life. Then we went up into the mountains to Boquete and enjoyed two nights of cool air.

Day 1 Border 1 We blasted from Boquete through David and to the Panama/Costa Rica border. Driving in Panama is a pleasure. It was a clam crossing and we were done in just under an hour. We drove up the Pacific coast of Costa Rica and into Liberia. It was about 10 hours on the road. We spent the night in a cheap backpackers haunt, then hit to road the next morning.

Day 2 Boder 2 From Liberia to Leon, Nicaragua. The border between Costa Rica and Nicaragua was not as horrific as when we were headed south, but it was still long and unpleasant. The Costa Rica side was fine, there was a small wait for migration, but nothing to long. We got through the fumugation on the Nica side by ourselves, then thankfully spotted Charlie. Charlie is the man who helped us get through the first time. Unlike the kids who hang around and yell and bang on the car, Charlie is calm and efficient. Dave yelled out the window as soon as he saw Charlie. Withouth Charlie it would have been a different story. After the border we headed straight for Leon. We ended up taking the old highway from the Managua area to Leon. The result was a much bumpier and slower ride. We spent 7 hours on the road, and decided to check out Leon for two nights, just to get a rest.

Day 3 wasn't much of a rest. Leon was hot and dusty and just not restful. It does have beautiful old churches and a fantastic art gallery full of work by artists from Central and South America. The gallery was the highlight and for me it is reason enough to go to Leon if you are in Nicaragua.

Day 4 Borders 3 and 4. This was the roughest day. We set out from Leon on a highway that was underconstruction, so two and half hours of dust and bumps, then exited Nicaragua without much effort. Getting into Honduras was a little more work and a lot more money. It costs 40 usd to bring a car in, plus a few dollars per person. After about an hour at the border, we were in Honduras. This stretch of Honduras is notorious for police check points, but we were ready. We bought a new saftey triangle and a fire extinguisher and watched for where speeds were reduced. We were nearly out of Honduras (about a 3 hour drive in all) and through 4 or 5 checkpoints without being pulled over when we got flagged down.

We showed them the triangle, the extinguisher, we chatted it up, then they said we ran a stop sign and wouldn't give Dave's lisence back to us even though we kept saying there isn't a stop sign visible from the road. It was off the road and totally blocked by trees. In the end they got 20 usd and we continued towards El Salvador. It was frustrating because it was so obvisouly a shake-down. Crossing into El Salvador involved waiting around in the heat for a while, but it only took an hour and we chatted it up with some truckers while we waited. We pulled into Alegria around 6pm. Making it a 9 hour travel day. At the end of the day we were rewarded with pupusas, cool mountain air, and friendly conversations.

The only downside was around midnight when we awoke to ''The Gambler'' being blasted in the plaza across from the hotel. Music and singing continued off and on until after 3am. Dave went to the van and retrieved earplugs which helped. Then this morning around 730 we awoke to a drum and brass band marching in the streets. Ends up one of the guys we talked to at dinner is a bit of the town crazy, and this is not an uncommon occurance. This morning we were told people don't try to stop him forcefully because he gets violent when he binges. We still haven't figured out the reason for the marching band.

Pictures from Panama coming soon, as soon as we get wi-fi.

We are headed back to Suchitoto tomorrow. After that we really don't know what we'll do. Probably going back to Playa Mizata for a day or two to clean out the van and collect ourselves. We're kinda waiting to see what the deal is with travelling between Mexico and the U.S.

Bocas del Toro

Bocas del Toro is actually an entire Panamanian province. But what most people mean when they say it is the Carribean archipelago off the northwest coast of Panama. Most of the islands are ringed with mangroves, although there are some beaches. Houses, restaurants, and hotels are not built waterfront. Instead, they are built on stilts above the water. The buildings range from dingy white to bright turquoise and just about any other color.

The largest island is Isla Colon, but most of the surrounding islands also offer a bunch of accomodations and activities. The main area is called Bocas Town. There you can find every creature comfort and any diversion.

We spent our first three nights in Panama on Isla Colon. Robbie, Ele, Dave and I rented a two bedroom cottage in the Saigon neighborhood, a 5 to 10 minute bike ride from "downtown'' Bocastown. We rented the cottage instead of just showing up, our normal routine, because it was Semana Santa. While there were signs for vacancy here and there, it was pretty full. All of the Panamanians and Ticos were in full tilt party mode as well. Things were a little quieter on Friday, because Panamanian law prohibits the sale of liquor on Good Friday (but not any other day of Holy Week). Although some places would happily serve grapejuice, applejuice, etc if you asked nicely, and there was a giant ''private'' party on a neighboring island.

Thursday
After a bit of confusion trying to find the dock in Chinguanola, there is one but the boats are much less frequent and the ride is longer and more expensive, we drove another half hour to Almirante. There are three or four boat companies running 30 minute rides out to the islands for $4 a person each way. Bocas Water Tours was who we used, they showed Dave where the secure parking was, and the boat was comfortable with shade and lifejackets on the back of everyone's seat.

Once we were on the island, about 5, we met up with the woman who rented us the cottage and picked up the beach cruiser bikes that were included in the rental.

Dave and I went to an indian place for dinner, it was very good but not great, although the smokestack of a table next to us might have influenced how I felt about my food.

Friday
Our cottage came with bikes, without them it would have been a bummer of a location, but with the bikes it was fun to cruise around town, and on Friday Dave and I rode up the coast to a tiny smidge of sand that we had all to ourselves.

Picture thanks to the help of a friendly palm tree.

It was here we fell in love with the macro and supermacro settings on my camera.







We ate lunch at Lili's Cafe. DELICIOUS. If in Bocas, go there and try to Killin Me Man hot pepper sauce. DO IT. I had a fantastic burger, no not fantastic-for-central-america, just fantastic. Thick, juicy, flavorful. It came with the hot pepper sauce, and because I am crazy and my father's daughter, I added more. My lips burned for a good few minutes after we were done eating, and I liked it.

There were religious observances, and riding from a residential neighborhood into town allowed me to peek through many open church windows and doors where services ranging from a traditional mass to a foot stompin' hand wavin' sing-n-shout to something any methodist would feel at home attending. The services were going when we went to breakfast in the morning and they were going when we went home after dinner. That night we witnessed a procession through the streets of downtown. After the video was shot, they stopped and there was call and response and prayer.

As an alternative to the religious observances many Ticos and Panamanians were tearin' it up much like a college student at South Padre Island for spring break.

Policia
After dinner we searched for an icecream shop. Dave loves the icecream cones, and I make it a policy not to say no to icecream. We peddled all over town, and found nothing. Finally we stopped and asked some heavily armed policia who were standing around the square. They were sad to say there was no icecream shop on the island, but they were happy to talk to us, and we stood there for a good 15 minutes just chatting. This friendly attitude has been repeated by cops at highway check points and on the streets of Panama City. You get the feeling from talking to the police and looking at them that there are better trained, better equiped, and better paid than their counterparts in other countries we have visited. You are also keenly aware that people are excited you are visiting their country.

Saturday
We booked a snorkel trip with Bocas Water Sports for Saturday. We left at 930 and returned about 430. $25 was two snorkel stops, dolphin watching, and time on Red Frog Beach. We also went to a little over-the-water restaurant with the option of getting lunch. The lunch wasn't anything special, and was a bit overpriced. Dave and I figured that would be the case, so we packed a few sandwiches (made on bread from the German bakery in Bocas town, yum yum yum), but also ordered one plate to share. Obviously you can't sit in the restraunt and eat the food you brought with you, so it worked out we had a little food then, and then sandwiches once we got to Red Frog Beach. The best part about the trip was going around the islands getting to see uninterrupted coast of mangroves and the quieter side of things.

Snorkeling
It was fun to snorkel, but the conditions were suboptimal. Worth the money to snorkel, but
I'm glad I didn't spend the money on diving. After Roatan, it wouldn't have stacked up. The reef is much more damaged, the algea growth more pronounced, and worst of all, the visibility was much lower. That said, just from snorkelling I did see a decent assortment of coral at the first site and fish at the second, including a trumpet fish, angel fish, parrot fish, gobbies, etc.
I also enjoyed playing with the camera, since I hadn't gotten to in Roatan.



Red Frog Beach
What a great beach! Worth the price-gouged access fee (up by 2 or 3 bucks because of Semana Santa). If we would have had another day in Bocas, we would have spent most of it there.
It is beautiful and the water is great fun. I did feel a slight rip to the current as I waded in, but if aware of it, it didn't seem to be a big danger.

Wading out into the water is fun because there is sandbar after sandbar. One minute you are over your head, the next standing waist deep. The waves were strong enough to bodysurf, but weak enough to swim in comfortably.




Sunday
After a leisurely wake-up, Dave and I took the boat back to Almirante where we headed into the mountains of Bocas del Toro province towards CA1 and Panama City. Because of the 25lb per person baggage limit on Robbie and Ele's flight from Bocas to Panama City, they couldn't take all of their stuff, so we agreed to drive it to them and meet before Ele left on April 14.

Sherry was in good condition, and we drove from Almirante to Santiago. The drive through the mountains to the Pacific side and CA1 was one of the most beautiful we have done. The road was in good condition except for the places where it had been taken out by floods or landslides or a sink hole. The forest is dense on both sides of the road during the climb up on the Caribbean side, then after peaking on the continental divide, there is a drastic change to pine forest with dry grass.

Panama is beautiful and full of physical contrasts.