Monday, February 9, 2009

Lago Atitlan

Saturday morning Dave and I drove up to Lago Atitlan. We thought it would be a short drive, seeing as how it was only 60 to 70 miles away, but getting there took 4.5 and the return was 3.5.

Driving here is slow. Slow. SLOW! We knew driving around the lake would be slow, but we thought getting there wouldn't be so bad, because we were taking CA-1, the Pan-american "Highway". Unfortunately a great deal of it is under construction. Just drive/ride for one day here, and you will be slow to complain about road construction at home.

Here is a typical line of backed up traffic on the "highway" where it is down to one lane and rotating which direction gets to go.


We were pulled over about 30 minutes after we left the house. Even though we had nothing to hide, it made me very nervous. Things were fine, handed over our papers, the cop looked at them, looked at us, looked through a window in the back, and said we could go.

Lago Atitlan is picturesque, and full of gringos and ex-pats. Santiago Atitlan, where we stayed, is less so than Panajachel or San Pedro. The drive there took us through coffee plantations. It is harvest and along the road were places with scales and trucks where the pickers would bring the coffee.


In addition to getting to see the coffee harvest in action, driving gave us the benefit of views like this:


A much different perspective than seeing the area from the lake, like this:



We borrowed a canoe from the place we stayed and went out on the water Saturday afternoon. The best part was seeing the locals go about using the lake.

For fishing



For watering crops


For washing clothes. The dots of color along the shore are women doing their wash.


It inspired Dave to sing a song...


Sunday we walked into Santiago Atitlan and wandered through the market where I bought a pink, previously owned, Clear Lake California sweatshirt for about 2usd. It is soft and wonderful. Dave also picked up a new mascota (pet).

Meet Gustavo (Gus) el camarron ( the shrimp).



We paid an old man named Salvador to take us to see Maximon, a local saint, and Santiago, who move houses every year. They like offerings of money, cigars, rum, and nice shoes. They share a room, but each has their own side.

This is Santiago and his posse.

After visiting Maximon we went to the church. Dave has a pic on his blog. During the war the priest, originally from Oklahoma, was murdered. The villagers respected him and requested to keep his heart and blood to honor him.

Santiago de Atitlan, like most every village in Guatemala, has their own unique Ropa Tipica. Four things stood out: the men wore ropa tipica, striped short-pants cinched with a fabric belt and sometimes elaborately embroidered; the fabric for the hupiles (women's shirts) was often striped similar the the men's pants; elaborate embroidery, including small glass beads was common; and detailed birds and flowers were the motifs of choice for the embroidery.


We were big fans of the pants. We bought two pairs from this shop.


Walking back to the room we saw this corral.
After a busy day supporting the local craftsman and visiting some minor saints we relaxed in the wood-fired sauna.

A fine weekend indeed!

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