Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Suchitoto

You can do it all in Suchitoto; eat, sleep, and drink.
Our favorite stop of the trip.
Yes La Mizata was a great beach, and I just experienced world-class diving in Roatan, and Lago Atitlan was postcard-pretty, BUT Suchitoto stands as the best-yet.

Suchitoto is north of San Salvador, towards Honduras. It is a colonial town overlooking Lago Suchitlan, a large man-made lake. It is in the mountains, but not high, so it is hot. The streets are cobblestone and the buildings white-washed. The square has an imposing church with the only sacred heart I've ever seen ontop of a building,

and La Tienda de La Abuela, which sells the best popsicles Dave or I ever had.

The area is left-leaning and the surrounding mountains were a FMLN stronghold during the war. There is a Presidential election in a few days and when we were there we missed a FMLN fundraising party by one day. Technically we weren't allowed to go anyway, although it's common for extraneros to go as guests. We spent two nights there, and weren't ready to leave. We just wandered the town, talked to people, and took a walk to the edge of the lake. We are thinking about a prolonged stop there during the return trip. There is so much more we want to see in the area, and the locals told us it is even prettier during the rainy season.

Dave at an outlook over the lake.


One great thing in Suchitoto is El Gringo. Robert from California. He has dual citizenship and has been living in El Salvador for 15 years. He is now married with kids and step-kids and his family runs a small hostel and restaurant. He provides great local insight and is just fun.

There is a community campaign against domestic violence and violence against women. There were signs, painted light posts, and this stencil that was near the door of most homes.

There were also lots of art galleries and cafes. We were told on the weekend it really gets going. Hopefully we'll get to experience that in a few months. But Suchitoto isn't all staged and perfect. There are also houses waiting for a new coat of stucco.


Suchitoto also introduced me to the rice pupusas. In the northern part of El Salvador, rice flour instead of masa is sometimes used. The rice flour makes it a little lighter, better suited for the squash filling. The masa is heartier and more filling. I could never decide which I preferred, so ordering one of each was the obvious solution.


Within a few kilometers of town is a waterfall. This time of year it is not running, but still worth a visit because it is full of hexagonal basalt columns. It is a little drive outside of town, also walking distance, and well worth a visit.
Of course Dave had to climb it, an urge I did not share.

1 comment:

  1. Excelent info! It looks so rustic and off the beaten track, there's a certain appeal to it as if it's stuck in time. Thanks for sharing

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