Pura Vida en Costa Rica

After leaving San Juan del Sur Nicaragua, we headed south on CA 1 and crossed into Costa Rica.

There is only one border crossing for vehicular traffic, which makes things pretty chaotic. The Nicaraguan side of the border was horrible. We had to pay a guy to help us, because we couldn't even find the people we needed. At every other border there is a line and a door or window or desk under an awning, but in this case you just walk around and look for a policeman and then walk around and look for a customs official. After you have found one helping someone else you have to get them to come with you when he is done. Then you go and stand in a line in a building with power that switches off every 5 minutes or so, for immigration. Finding the roaming officials required a seasoned pro. Additionally all the buses, trucks, and personal vehicles are in the same area, adding to the chaos.

The Costa Rica side was quiet and everyone was friendly and in a designated place.

Parque National Rinconcito Viejo
We headed up to Parque Nacional Rinconcito Viejo. We stayed at the Rinconcito lodge near the entrance, it was quiet and not dry or windy, a very nice change from Nicaragua.

The next day we drove the 10 minutes into the park. With the exception of the park ranger, no one else was there. We took a great hike through secondary growth forest to some oak forest where there were some aguas thermales. You could smell them way before you got there, up close the sulfur was so strong it made my nose itch. We decided to pass on taking those waters.

Instead we stopped at a small waterfall on the way back to the ranger station.

The water was pins and needles cold, but it felt great to drop the core temp. We enjoyed the cold water, clear air, and the sounds of a band of howler monkeys making their ways through the trees.

We liked the park so much, we decided to spend the night there and to pass the remainder of the afternoon reading and playing cards. After paying the camping fee, we were attacked by biting gnats. They were vicious little creatures. I'll take mosquitos any day, but please not these things. The bite was so forceful it created a tiny blood blister. And they itched! Boy-howdy did they itch and swell!

The good news was that they didn't bite through clothing, so we changed into loose-fitting long shirts and pants and put on socks. Then put deet based repellant on our hands, necks, ears, and edges of our faces. Of course we didn't think we needed to put repellant on our ears actually, wouldn't it be enough to put it on our necks? No. Dave and I both got bitten on the ears, then put on repellant. I also received four bites to the face, prompting the ONLY time I have ever put repellant on my face. The good news was at dusk they all disappeared, and the mosquitos were hardly noticeable.

What was noticeable was this guy, known to Ticos as a pizote, aka coatimundi.

He busted into a food bag we had set on the top of the car, eating the bread we had planned to use for sandwiches the next day! Then he stalked the campground hoping we would let down our guard again, but we knew his little tricks.

It was an uneventful night, minus the multiple ticks Dave had to pull. We each had two ticks attached and found more crawling on our clothes. I am pathetic when it comes to pulling ticks. Ticks gross me out, big time. Cockroaches are fine, snakes are fine, spiders are no worries, scorpions I don't want to be on close terms with but they don't give me the creeps. Ticks are another story. I can't hardly pull them off Louiedog, let alone pull one off of me! But that's why I travel with Dave. He takes it all in stride, sticks a hot lighter on its butt and gives it a tug. My hero.
**Just to give credit where credit is due, Mom and Liza are my heroines. Mom has helped me out more than once when I had a tick trying to make a meal of me or one of my pets, and without Liza, Louie would have had to stop going to Elk because he always picks up ticks there. Also, once Liza rushed home when I thought I had a tick between my toes. Ends up it was just a scab. But she still rushed home after I called her totally disgusted and freaking out just a little. **

In the morning we got up, my feet were attacked by more gnats when I walked to the bathroom without socks, Dave made his coffee and we were on the road fleeing from a lovely park and some horrid insects!

We spent the next afternoon and evening in Heredia. It is about 10 minutes from the airport. The San Jose airport isn't really in San Jose, but 30 minutes outside of it. We bought Acerito, hung out at the mall. I was reminded that malls are the same in Malaysia, Thailand, Costa Rica, Texas, California, Mexico... But the mall had free wifi and we had a new computer. Plus in Costa Rica where everything costs as much if not more than it does in the USA, sitting in the food court using free wifi is a very economical way to pass your time.

On the way to the mall, we saw a sign that might explain why some people like to visit Costa Rica.
I think the only worse name would be Esposas de Comprar.


Playa Guiones
The next day we picked up Robbie, Dave's friend from way back, and Ele, Robbie's girlfriend. Then drove 6 hours to Playa Guiones on the Nicoya Peninsula. You might look at a map and wonder why it took 6 hours, but if you were to look at what Ticos know to be CA1 you would understand. Most county roads in the states are better than CA1 is in Costa Rica. No shoulder, not even a gravel shoulder in most places and never a paved shoulder, no dividing line, no passing lanes, nothing. By far the worst condition for CA1 in all of Central America. Because Costa Rica is a more prosperous country than the other ones we have been through, there is a noticeable increase in the amount of cars on the road. Costa Rica is also very hilly, some might even say mountainous although I wouldn't. To top it off, even if they wanted to widen the ''highway'' to meet demand, politically it might be difficult because everything is built right up to the edge of it, meaning thousands of businesses would have to be moved to accommodate even the adding of a shoulder.

We arrived to Playa Guiones to spend a week relaxing and enjoying being in a house. We rented a great little house. New construction (everything around there is) and it even had a little pool!

Dave and I were so excited to get out of the car for more than a day or two. I was thrilled to have a kitchen. I made, and we ate, three big batches of cookies in the week we were there!

The first day we were there we got stuck. Shortly before getting stuck we saw this giant pissed-off bull.

Thankfully we were a few minutes delayed while Robbie and Ele took a picture, otherwise instead of meeting him, and the two cowboys wearily escorting him on long ropes, in a big riverbed crossing we would have had to share a small dirt road.

That evening Robbie had a little run-in with his surfboard. Not wanting to risk infection or a scar he sought medical attention. Being that it was after hours he had to go to the local redcross, they didn't quite appreciate his concerns and only did a little alcohol swab followed by a plain old bandaid. He made it out alright though, considering the medic traded services for a cocacola.


The Playa Guiones/ Nosara area is a total surf scene. Ticos, gringos, and other Central Americans flock there. It was dry, a little greener than Nicaragua, but not that windy.
We had a much needed rest, which included lots of pina coladas, reading, and cribbage. I tried surfing a little more. Ele taught us a new card game, Scopa Scientifico.

I wouldn't recommend Playa Guiones unless you a) like to surf and don't mind sharing the line up b) you are going to a yoga retreat at what appeared to be a first rate yoga center across the street from the house we rented or c) are taking a rest stop and want a nice quiet place to cook, sleep, read, and swim in a small but lovely pool. The beach was salt and pepper sand with no shade and poor swimming and the town is all new and a scene for wealthy Ticos and gringo surfers. The upside is that with the down economy and the off season coming up, you can get a good deal on rentals like the one we had.


Headed to Panama!
After a week of homecookin' and rest we were on the road again. This time we headed to the Caribbean coast. Unfortunately we had to go back through central Costa Rica, but the highway to Puerto Limon is much nicer than CA1. It was still a long drive with hours spent behind a few semitrucks that insisted on going under 20 coming down the mountains. It was a pretty drive through forested volcano peaks and dropping down to the antithisis of the Pacific coast. The Caribbean is green, lush, and humid.

We spent the night in the small town of Siquirres. Nothing remarkable, but a clean room only cost 15 usd, and that is something to smile about.

The next day we were at the Sixola/ Changuinola border ready to cross into Panama. The crossing is mainly used for bananas headed into Panama for export to Europe or the Pacific coast of North America. It is a one lane train trelis bridge high above the Sixola river.

Traffic crosses by taking turns in about half hour increments, or whoever gets there first. There was no one directing traffic when it was our turn to cross. We peered to the end of the bridge and proceeded cautiously. The main hazard was the pedestrians walking across. There is no seperate place for pedestrians for about 20 yards, so everyone is on the bridge together.

We had heard it is a quiet and easy crossing. I can see this being true on a normal day. But this was not a normal day. It was Maundy Thursday. In addition to the banana trucks and the normal trickle of tourist vans, there were lots of Ticos heading to Bocas del Toro for Semana Santa.

The paperwork on the car was the fastest and easiest yet, on both sides. The Costa Ricans issued us an extension/ re-entry pass and the Panamanians, were gracious and quick. Immigration was another issue. Neither side is equipped to handle mass amounts of people. We had the unfortunate luck of being behind TWO tourist busses on the Tico side. One group going in and the other heading out. On both sides of this border the incoming and outgoing are all lumped together. The Tico line seemed long, but it moved quickly because all they did was stamp your passport and take the form you had filled out. The Panama side was another story. We waited in line, in the sun, next to the fumugation station, which was used on every vehicle that came through it, for THREE HOURS! Well we waited for two and a half, Robbie and Ele were in the line the first half hour we were dealing with the car. Because of the waiting in the hot sun and being sprayed with a mix of chemicals the FDA and EPA most likely strictly limit human exposure to, this was the WORST border crossing.

Once across we headed 15 minutes down the road to Chinguanola to get the ferry to Islas Bocas del Toros...

Suchitoto

You can do it all in Suchitoto; eat, sleep, and drink.
Our favorite stop of the trip.
Yes La Mizata was a great beach, and I just experienced world-class diving in Roatan, and Lago Atitlan was postcard-pretty, BUT Suchitoto stands as the best-yet.

Suchitoto is north of San Salvador, towards Honduras. It is a colonial town overlooking Lago Suchitlan, a large man-made lake. It is in the mountains, but not high, so it is hot. The streets are cobblestone and the buildings white-washed. The square has an imposing church with the only sacred heart I've ever seen ontop of a building,

and La Tienda de La Abuela, which sells the best popsicles Dave or I ever had.

The area is left-leaning and the surrounding mountains were a FMLN stronghold during the war. There is a Presidential election in a few days and when we were there we missed a FMLN fundraising party by one day. Technically we weren't allowed to go anyway, although it's common for extraneros to go as guests. We spent two nights there, and weren't ready to leave. We just wandered the town, talked to people, and took a walk to the edge of the lake. We are thinking about a prolonged stop there during the return trip. There is so much more we want to see in the area, and the locals told us it is even prettier during the rainy season.

Dave at an outlook over the lake.


One great thing in Suchitoto is El Gringo. Robert from California. He has dual citizenship and has been living in El Salvador for 15 years. He is now married with kids and step-kids and his family runs a small hostel and restaurant. He provides great local insight and is just fun.

There is a community campaign against domestic violence and violence against women. There were signs, painted light posts, and this stencil that was near the door of most homes.

There were also lots of art galleries and cafes. We were told on the weekend it really gets going. Hopefully we'll get to experience that in a few months. But Suchitoto isn't all staged and perfect. There are also houses waiting for a new coat of stucco.


Suchitoto also introduced me to the rice pupusas. In the northern part of El Salvador, rice flour instead of masa is sometimes used. The rice flour makes it a little lighter, better suited for the squash filling. The masa is heartier and more filling. I could never decide which I preferred, so ordering one of each was the obvious solution.

Within a few kilometers of town is a waterfall. This time of year it is not running, but still worth a visit because it is full of hexagonal basalt columns. It is a little drive outside of town, also walking distance, and well worth a visit.
Of course Dave had to climb it, an urge I did not share.

Ruta de Las Flores and Santa Ana

In what seems like ages ago, we drove up from Costa de La Libertad into the mountains in western El Salvador to a winding road known as Ruta de Las Flores. It is a 36km road that connects a series of little colonial towns. For a few months a year the road is flanked by wild flowers (sadly not while we were there) and all year round there are lots of flower nurseries in the area.

The towns are a lot like Antigua Guatemala, minus the hordes of gringos and the ruins interspersed with the intact buildings. We spent the night in Juayua.
Without a map, we were at a loss for the location of the hotel we wanted. The solution was our standard one in El Salvador (well really anywhere, it just worked so well there), to pull over and ask a local. We asked two teenagers sitting in the plaza. At first they started giving us directions, then one hoped on his bike and said he would just show us. It wasn't far, but it is a great example of the hospitality and friendly spirit we encountered the whole time we were in El Salvador.

The higlight of Juayua, for me, was the pupusas. I love pupusas, and I hadn't been able to get any until Juayua. Pupusas are an evening food, and because we were on the beach without a restuarant, there were none to be had. But my routine of pupusas for dinner began in Juayua and continued through Suchitoto.

Pupusas are masa stuffed with beans or pork or squash or more creative fillings and cheese, then cooked on a grill-top. Two was always plenty to fill me up for the evening. With prices ranging from .40 to .60 usd each, pupusas are front runner for the best bang-for-my-buck of the trip.

Another highlight was the dairy shops. What's not to love? A whole store full of dairy with great signs.


The next morning we went to a series of waterfalls a few kilometers outside of town. If it wasn't for the open gash Dave had, we would have swam, instead we just waded around and enjoyed the scenery. It was a series of three sets waterfalls, all spilling straight out of the rocks. If you ever go, learn from my mistake-- take your swimsuit and leave your busted-headed boyfriend sitting on the edge while you enjoy the crystal-clear water.




After the waterfall we drove to Apaneca and Laguna Verde for a walk and a look at the pretty little green lagoon, then lunch on the square. The way to the lake is well signed, as is Las Vegas Blvd and a tribute to The King.
The roving reporter Dave brings you this update from Laguna Verde


We continued on to Ataco, the town furthest west on Ruta de Las Flores, and wished we wouldn't have eaten lunch in Apaneca. Ataco is a picturesque and quiet little town. The buildings are covered in bright colors and vibrant murals. We want to return on the weekend for a night, when things are hopping with the weekend visitors from San Salvador. I'm eying it as a stop on the return trip. In particular, this attractive little The Twins Pupuseria.

From Apaneca we headed to Santa Ana, old money seat of El Salvador. It was big, and our reason for stopping was sorbet without rival. At least that's what the sign said.
It was good icecream, and probably the best we had, technically. See the upcoming post on Suchitoto and the magical popsicles for why Sin Rivals wins on a technicality.

Fueled with icecream we undertook the task of finding what both of our tourist maps (one in LP guide, the other a free map we picked up along the way) showed to be a paved road running straight from Santa Ana to Suchitoto, where we wanted to spend the night. After asking for directions and following the signs we drove about 45 minutes without any other signs and felt like we were headed in the wrong way. So we pulled over to a police station on the side of the road and asked how to get to the town at the beginning of the road. The police sent us back in the direction we had come. Then after about an hour, we found ourselves back in Santa Ana! We looked at the round-about for an indicator, didn't see one, and voluntarily pulled into a police check point. It took three municipal police to explain to us that the road on our map didn't exist, and we had to go back the way we had originally gone, then north towards Suchitoto.

Two important lessons were learned during the wasted two and a half hours we spent driving in a circle:
1. Follow the signs, not the maps
2. In El Salvador, the sign will not be posted until you need it, so don't second guess and turn around just because you haven't seen a sign in an hour.